Spanish Tapas
October 30, 2015
“A Spanish tapa bar is one of mankind’s inspired inventions . . .”
— James Michner, Miracle in Seville
With their late lunches (2:30 – 4:30) and very late dinners (9:30 – 11:30), how do the Spanish not faint from hunger during the day? The answer is tapas.
“[A] tapa, a word derived from the verb tapar, which mean ‘to cover.'”
— Talia Baiocchi, from Sherry: The Wine World’s Best-Kept Secret
” . . . tapas originated . . . in the nineteenth century, when bars and taverns used to keep saucers over glasses of sherry to both keep the flies our and preserve the wine’s aroma. . . . on top of the saucer, barkeepers would generally offer a small slice of jamon, either alone or on top of a piece of bread, as a welcoming gesture. This, as it’s told, eventually evolved into a collection of small dishes meant to be consumed in bars, with wine.”
— Talia Baiocchi, from Sherry: The Wine World’s Best-Kept Secret
Carol and I loved sharing two or three tapas and calling it a meal. We were novices at making selections. Even when the menus included English descriptions, the arrival of the small plates to our table was invariably a surprise.
Once, for example, we ordered chunks of chicken on a skewer for one dish, beef with mushrooms for our second, and a tapa of potatoes brava. We did not know that each of the meat dishes would come with its own side of potatoes, so our meal was very heavy on the starch! The potatoes were so delicious, though, braised and crusty on the outside, warm and soft on the inside. Hard to resist. Total cost, including two small beers: 10 euros.
After that, we tried to include at least one vegetable dish for a more balanced meal, which was a good strategy!
Another time we ordered a tapa of shrimp fried in batter. We were expecting something like a dish of popcorn shrimp. Instead, what came to our table were four large shrimp fritters, thin pancakes fried to crispy perfection. Delicious.
“Nobody drank without eating — it would have been thought uncivilized . . .”
— Laurie Lee, As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning
Of course, you could not eat tapas without drinking, so if you stopped in a tapas bar for a late morning pick-me-up, you might actually find yourself drinking a small beer before noon. (It’s been known to happen.)
We had the chance to see a tapas-making demonstration during our Andalusian train tour. Alejandro, one of the Al Andalus chefs, made three batches of tapas, which we got to sample: a cold tomato soup called salmorejo; a melon, tomato and cheese salad; and a pate of black olives on toast rounds. Yum!
The Food of Spain
October 26, 2015
” . . . it cannot be denied that you get more enjoyment out of visiting a famous town if you are well housed and well fed.”
— W. Somerset Maugham, “Somerset Maugham’s ‘Spanish Journey’: Interlude at Oropera,” Chicago Tribune, March 3, 1985
I returned from Spain very well fed. Truly, the food of Spain was one of the highlights of my trip.
Ham seems to be emblematic of Spain, and it is a delight to still see so many small, independent butcher shops in the residential neighborhoods. Many of the tapas bars displayed hams hanging from their ceilings. We even saw ham-flavored potato chips for sale!
“One of the glories of Spain is her bread, which the Romans remarked upon a thousand years ago, and which is said to be so good because the corn is left to last possible moment to ripen upon the stalk. It is the best bread I know, and its coarse, strong, springy substance epitomizes all that is admirable about Spanish simplicity. It is rough indeed, and unrefined, but feels full of life . . .”
— Jan Morris, Spain
My friend Carol had forewarned me that Spain has the best bread in the world, so we both threw diets to the wind and took every opportunity to partake. Bread was offered at every meal. When I was in Baeza, I saw a man selling bread from the back of his van parked in the church square. I imagine this was a regular stop, because the town women steadily approached to fill plastic bags with their purchases.
While we were on our week-long train tour with Al Andalus, all meals were provided, and we were fed very well indeed. Lunches and dinners were served either on the train or at a fine restaurant at one of our stops. Each lunch and dinner was a four-course meal, and the menus were predetermined — everyone was served the same dishes. It was a relief to leave the food selection to our expert hosts; each dish was a surprise and utterly delicious. Here is an example of one such lunch, which we ate at the parador in Ronda:
When we were on our own (not on the train tour), Carol and I usually ate more casually. We found a perfect way to sample lots of savory dishes by sharing two or three small plates of tapas. The selection was varied and not at all simply snacks; tapas were rather like down-sized portions of complicated or savory dinner dishes. One of our favorites was a plate of roasted artichokes, which I finally had the presence of mind to photograph after we had already eaten (inhaled) five of the six beautifully prepared artichokes on the plate.
Truly, I cannot imagine going hungry in Spain. I was so impressed that Spain has not lost the tradition of small, independent shops and restaurants to cookie-cutter chain stores. Each shop had so much individual character and many were cluttered with abundant and varied inventory. How I wish that towns and cities in the United States could replicate this way of living.
One experience that Carol and I were determined not to miss was eating churros and chocolate. After walking through a festival and street fair in Alcala, we decided churros and chocolate would provide a much-needed energy boost. My oh my! The chocolate was nothing like the hot chocolate we drink at home. This was on the order of a thin pudding, perfect for dipping sugar-glazed churros into.
Food was such a pleasurable part of my trip to Spain, that I will be revisiting the subjects of tapas and Barcelona’s Mercat de la Boqueria in future blog posts. For today, I want to mention one more Spanish food surprise: Nespresso! All the hotels we stayed in, the Al Andalus luxury train, and many shops and restaurants offer espresso drinks made on Nespresso machines (or similar k-cup-type machines). It makes me wonder if the barista’s art of hand-crafted espresso drinks is dying in Spain. I don’t see the same trend in Seattle where the barista still rules the coffee shops here.
Making Paneer and Aloo Gobi
September 24, 2015
My friend Carol hosted another cooking lesson at her house. Once again she invited our colleague, Jarnail, to demonstrate how he makes more of his Indian dishes. This time he made paneer (homemade cheese) and aloo gobi (potatoes and cauliflower). Jarnail served the paneer in the same sauce he uses to make Butter Chicken, and he also whipped up some basmati rice. (You can find the latter two recipes in an earlier blog post at this link.)
Paneer
1 gallon whole milk
1/2 c white vinegar
Bring milk to a rolling boil (taking care not to let it boil over) and then add vinegar. Let the milk sit on low heat for about 10 minutes. It should look very curdled and separated into clumps. Then strain through a cotton dish towel, squeezing out as much liquid as possible. Using your hands, press the paneer — still inside the towel — into a ball. Tie the towel off, and press the paneer under a heavy weight for about 2 hours. (We set a plate on the ball of paneer and weighed it down with a large heavy pot of water.)
While the paneer is draining, prepare the sauce.
In a large pot, heat a bit less than 1/4 c oil and 1/2 Tbsp cumin seeds until sizzling. Then add:
1 (28 oz.) can tomato sauce
2/3 c water (from rinsing the can)
1 pint whipping cream (not heavy)
About 1 Tbsp salt (more or less to taste)
1 Tbsp garam masala
1 Tbsp garlic powder
1 Tbsp ground ginger
Heat to simmering.
When the paneer has finished draining (Jarnail did not have time to let it drain for two hours, so he pressed it — really hard — to remove all liquid), cut it up and add the pieces to the sauce. Cook another 10 minutes or so. Serve over rice.
Aloo Gobi
4 medium potatoes, peeled and chopped (not too fine, chunks are okay)
1 medium cauliflower, cut into pieces
1/4 c oil
1 Tbsp cumin seeds
2 Tbsp turmeric
1 medium onion, diced
8 oz. can tomato sauce
1 Tbsp salt (more or less to taste)
1 Tbsp ground ginger
1 Tbsp garlic powder
1 Tbsp garam masala
In a large pan, heat oil and add cumin seeds. Heat to sizzling. Drop in potatoes, onions, and 1 Tbsp turmeric, cover and continue to cook on medium for about 10 – 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Add tomato sauce. Cover, and stirring occasionally, cook on medium high heat until the potatoes are about half done.
Add cauliflower, another Tbsp turmeric, the salt, garlic, ginger, and garam masala. Add just enough water to steam (or add a tad more tomato sauce and water, mixed) and prevent sticking. Cover and cook on medium heat until cauliflower is tender, about 7 – 10 minutes.
Enjoy!
Chicken a la Trash
September 11, 2013
I’ve been feeling a bit listless lately — always a good reason to introduce something new into my daily life. This time it was a new recipe that I found in Pati’s Mexican Table by Pati Jinich. I’d never cooked poblano peppers before — they took some work with the charring and sweating. But they weren’t too spicy and they added a savory flavor to the dish.
Here’s the recipe:
1-1/2 pounds red potatoes, cut into small cubes (about 4 cups)
1/4 c hulled raw pumpkin seeds
1/4 c raw sunflower seeds
6 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves (I used chicken drumsticks instead)
1/4 c vegetable oil (I used less)
2 c coarsely chopped white onions
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 pound (3 – 4) poblano chiles, charred, sweated, peeled, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1 x 1/2-inch strips
2/3 c coarsely chopped pitted prunes
1/3 c water
Cook the potatoes in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until tender, about 4 to 5 minutes; drain. Set aside.
Meanwhile, heat a heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the pumpkin and sunflower seeds and cook, stirring and taking care not to burn them, until you hear popping sounds and the seeds begin to brown lightly, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.
Season the chicken with salt and pepper to taste. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet, and add and brown the chicken, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Add the onions, stirring often, until they are completely softened and beginning to brown, 6 to 8 minutes.
Add the garlic and cook about 1 minute. Add the poblanos and cook for another 3 minutes. Add the potatoes and then the prunes. Add 1/2 tsp salt and the water, cover, and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring once or twice until stewy.
When the chicken is ready, sprinkle with toasted seeds, gently toss, and serve. (Serves 6)
“Let the Sky Rain Potatoes”
July 22, 2013
“Let the sky rain potatoes.”
— William Shakespeare, The Merry Wives of Windsor
I love road trips for their unexpected, accidental findings, such as this field of purple in the Skagit Valley. Now, I’ve gone many times to the Skagit Valley to see daffodils and tulips in bloom, but those fields of color are April splendors, not mid-summer spectacles. So what was this purple field that stopped me in my tracks?
Potatoes! How fortunate to be passing by when the potato fields were in blossom. This field was one of 2000 acres one farming operation put into Skagit Valley potatoes this year.
I leave you with one poet’s ode to the versatile potato:
A New Potato
by Ted Kooser
This is just one of the leathery eggs
the scuffed-up, dirty turtle of the moon
buried early in spring, her eyes like stars
fixed on the future, and, inside its red skin,
whiteness, like all of the moons to come,
and marvelous, buttered with light.
Winter Rain and Potatoes
December 10, 2012
“Let the skies rain potatoes.”
— William Shakespeare, The Merry Wives of Windsor
Winter in Seattle most often means rain, not snow. The chilly, dark, dampness heightens the pleasures of comfort food. Today’s recipe for Crispy Smashed Potatoes certainly meets the definition of comfort food. Last week my friend Bonnie sent me a link to this blog where she found the recipe, and I’ve already made it twice!
I used some red potatoes that I had on hand — about two- or three-inches in diameter. First you cover them with salted water, bring to a boil, and cook on the stove top until just done. Drain.
Then pre-heat your oven to 425-degrees F. On a flat baking sheet with sides, pour a small puddle of olive oil for each potato. Place a potato in each puddle, then smash slightly with a potato masher. Now drizzle, each potato with some more olive oil and then season to taste. I used sea salt, freshly ground pepper, fresh rosemary bits, and a clove of cooked garlic. Bake for about 20 minutes until golden brown and crispy on the outside.
These are yummy!
How about a Soup Swap Instead of a Cookie Exchange?
December 10, 2011
I like the idea of a cookie exchange for the holidays, but I really don’t need a lot of sweets around the house. So when I read about a Soup Swap in an old issue of Edible Seattle, I thought this sounded like a great alternative. There is actually a Soup Swap website with how-to tips and recipe ideas.
When I mentioned this to a colleague, she was not really interested in swapping quarts of soup, but she did the next best thing and gave me a copy of one of her favorite soup recipes. I made a batch, and it really is delicious! I used leftover turkey broth from Thanksgiving, but you could make a totally vegetarian version with vegetable broth. I’ve been missing fresh greens, and this is a healthful alternative for winter. Here’s the recipe:
Green Velvet Soup
1 onion, chopped
2 celery stalks, diced
3/4 c split peas, rinsed
2 bay leaves
6 c water or vegetable stock
2 medium zucchini, diced
1 medium stalk broccoli, chopped
1 bunch fresh spinach, chopped
1/2 tsp basil
1/4 tsp black pepper
1 tsp salt
Place the onion, celery, potatoes, split peas, and bay leaves in a large pot with water or stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer 1 hour. Remove bay leaves.
Add the zucchini, broccoli, spinach, basil, and black pepper. Simmer 20 minutes. Transfer to a blender in several small batches and blend until completely smooth, holding the lid on tightly. Return to the pot and heat until steamy. Add salt to taste.
Peeling a Potato
November 9, 2009

The comfortable fit of a potato in my hand

Peeling a potato
Peeling a Potato
by Ted Kooser
Pablo Casals should see me now,
bowing this fat little cello,
peeling off long white chords.
I am not famous like Pablo,
not yet. The amphitheater
of the kitchen sink is nearly empty.
As the notes reel out,
I hear only the hesitant clapping
of a few moist hands.
I am playing the solo variations
of J. S. Bach. Wonderfully,
I sweep with my peeler. See me lean
into the work, tight lipped,
the light in my hair. Inspiration
trickles over my handsome old hands.

Varieties of potatoes at a farmers' market
“Let the skies rain potatoes.”
— William Shakespeare, The Merry Wives of Windsor
Potato Salad
June 7, 2009

Washing red potatoes for salad

Dicing the raw ingredients for potato salad

Assembling the final ingredients for salad

Ready to serve and enjoy
It takes just a few consecutive days of hot weather (it’s been in the high 80s and low 90s here lately) to start thinking about barbecues and picnics. I find it handy to have a good potato salad recipe for these occasions. I’ve been making my favorite potato salad since 1980 when I got the recipe from my housemate shortly after I moved to Seattle. It’s good warm (right after you make it) or cold. I sometimes add pickles or raw cucumbers, depending on what’s in the refrigerator. I usually make a half recipe for our small family of three.
Danish Potato Salad
1/4 c vinegar
1/4 c water
1/3 c honey
1/4 tsp salt
dash of pepper and garlic powder (I often saute raw garlic)
1 tsp prepared mustard
2 eggs, well beaten
1 c prepared salad dressing
4 c cubed, cooked potatoes (about 2 lbs)
4 hard-cooked eggs, chopped
1 Tbsp minced onion
Choppen cucumber, pickle, green onion, pepper, bacon bits (optional)
In a small saucepan, combine vinegar, water, honey, salt, pepper, garlic and mustard. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and gradually mix in well-beaten eggs. Cook, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened (about 5 minutes). Remove from heat and beat in salad dressing.
Toss together remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Pour dressing over top and toss. Serve immediately for warm potato salad, or keep refrigerated for cold potato salad.
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